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What's to see
Thimphu
Lying in a valley (elevation 2,350 m), Thimpu is unlike any other
capital in the world. The traditional architecture of its houses
and buildings is particularly striking - all embedded in a beautiful,
wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the bank of the Thimphu
Chhu (river.) This is the only world capital without traffic
lights. One was installed several years ago, but residents complained
about its impersonalness and it was removed within days. Despite
recent development, Thimphu retains its charm and is awash with
brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades which give the
town a captivating, medieval feel.
The places to visit are the Memorial Chorten, dedicated to the
late King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk; Tashichho Dzong, seat of the government
of Bhutan and the summer residence of the central monk body; the
Traditional Medicine Hospital where herbal medicines are prepared;
the National Library, a treasure trove of ancient texts; the Institute
of Zorig Chosum for thanka painting, sculpture, wood and
slate carving, gold works, embroidery and traditional boot making;
Changangkha Lakhang which contains ancient scriptures and thanka
paintings; and Simtokha Dzong, Bhutan's oldest fortress which
now houses a school for Buddhist studies. You can also visit the
smithy on the other side of the Thimpu river to see traditional
gold and silver smiths at work.
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Paro
Paro is 65 km (two hours drive) to the southwest of Thimpu. The
Taktsang Monastery where Guru Rinpoche meditated to subdue evil
spirits; Rinpung Dzong, venue of the Paro tsechu (festival);
Ta Dzong which houses the National Museum ws completed in 1656;
the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong, built to commemorate Bhutan's victory
over Tibetan aggressors; Kyichu Lakhang, one of the oldest and
most sacred temples in Bhutan; and Dungtse Lakhang with its extraordinary
collection of religious paintings, are the places to see in the
valley.
In April 1998 a fire destroyed the main structure of Taktshang
Monastery, perhaps Bhutan's most photographed and famous site,
perched on the side of a cliff 900m (2952ft) above the valley
floor. It is also known as 'Tiger's Nest' because Guru Rimpoche
is said to have flown to the site on the back of a tigress in
the eighth century. It has been one of the kingdom's most sacred
sites ever since, and will be rebuilt in its original style once
an auspicious date has been chosen.
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Bumthang
It sounds like a blues bar in America's deep south but Bumthang
is the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and home to its most ancient
and precious Buddhist sites. (Smokers should stock up before arrival
because the sale of tobacco is banned here.) In the centre of
Bhutan, Bumthang encompasses four major valleys; the main one,
Choskhor, is home to the most important dzongs, temples and palaces.
Jakar is at the foot of the Choskhor valley and likely to be your
base. Jakar Dzong is the largest in Bhutan with a circumference
of more than 1500m (4920ft), and was founded in 1549. Wangdichholing
Palace was formerly the humble abode of King Uygen Wangchuck.
Further along Choskhor Valley, the temple of Jambey Lhakhang
was built in 659 and hosts one of the kingdom's most spectacular
festivals, the Jambey Lhakhang Drup, in October. Kurjey Lhakhang
is named after the body print of Guru Rimpoche which is preserved
in a cave inside the oldest of the three buildings, which has
stood since 1652. If you're feeling dzonged out and have had your
fill of old, sacred buildings, take to the countryside. Here,
the great majority of Bhutanese live as they have for thousands
of years.
The best place to base yourself in the Bumthang region is Japar,
just over 150km (93mi) from Thimpu. As with elsewhere in Bhutan,
getting there is a matter of finding anything with wheels and
renting it, flagging it, or catching it. It's either that or walk.
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Phobjika Valley
Phobjika is a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black
Mountains, and is a designated conservation area nudging the borders
of the Black Mountain National Park. It is one of the most important
wildlife preserves in the country because of the large flock of
rare, endangered black-necked cranes that winter there. These
birds have a special place in Bhutanese folklore, and one of the
most popular folk songs laments the time when the cranes leave
the valley to return to Tibet. With permission from the Nature
Conservation Section in Thimphu, you can view the roosting place
of these birds. It's an awesome spectacle at dusk when all the
birds from the valley congregate for the night.
Permanent residents of the valley include muntjaks (barking deer),
wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes.
WWF has assisted in setting up the Khebethang Nature Study Centre
in Phobjikha village, near the foot of the valley
Nearby, Black Mountain National Park is a vast area still in
its natural state. It has an impressive array of plant species,
and animals found there include tigers, Himalayan black bears,
leopards, red pandas, gorals, serows, sambars, wild pigs and golden
langurs.
To get to Phobjika, take the main road to Wangi, and then turn
off down a dirt road for a further 13km (8mi). Thimpu to Phobjika
is 94km (58km).
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WESTERN BHUTAN
Punakha, 77 km (three hours and 15 minutes drive) northeast of
Thimpu, served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955 and, even today,
it is the winter home of the central monk body. The Punakha Dzong
houses many sacred artifacts and temples. The road from Thimpu
to Punakha crosses the 3,115-m Dochula pass.
Wangdi Phodrang (or Wangdi) is situated 70 km (three hoursí
drive) southeast of Thimpu. The Wangdi Phodrang Dzong played a
key role during the unification of Bhutan. Enroute from Wangdi
to Tongsa is the Gangtey Gompa, the biggest Nyingmapa monastery
in Bhutan.
CENTRAL BHUTAN
Trongsa is 129 km (four and half hours drive) east of Wangdi
and crosses the 3,300 m Pelela pass. The Trongsa Dzong, the ancestral
home of Bhutan's Royal Family, houses 23 temples. The watchtower,
Ta Dzong, has a temple dedicated to King Gesar, the hero of a
great epic.
Bumthang consists of the valleys of Chumey, Choekhor, Tang and
Ura. It takes two and half hours to reach Bumthang, 68 km northeast
of Trongsa. Bumthang is ideal for making excursions to the many
monasteries and shrines - Tharpaling, Choedrak, Tamshing, Kurjey,
Jambey, Kunzangdra among others - as well as to Mebartso, ìthe
flaming lakeî.
EASTERN BHUTAN
Mongar is 198 km (seven hours drive) southeast of Bumthang. The
road to Mongar crosses Thumshingla (3,800 m), the highest pass
in Bhutan. The Mongar Dzong is relatively new compared to the
other dzongs of the Kingdom.
Lhuntshi is 76 km (three hours drive) north of Mongar. The landscape
here is spectacular with stark cliffs and gorges, and dense coniferous
forests. This district is famous for its weavers and the fine
quality of fabrics they produce.
The 90-km trip from Mongar to Trashigang, the easternmost district,
takes four hours. Some 20 km before Trashigang is the Dametsi
Monastery, the most important monastery of eastern Bhutan. After
Thimpu, Trashigang is the largest urban center where the Trashigang
Dzong stands over the Gamri river. Tashi Yangtse, north of Trashigang,
has a dzong and the Nepalese style Chorten Kora.
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