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Away from the Crowd
Dakshinkali
At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat
spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple
is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort in
her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week on Tuesdays and
Saturdays, Nepalese visitors journey here to satisfy her bloodlust.
They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs,
which are matter-of-factly despatched by having their throats
slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing,
are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for
a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday
and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the
image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff.
Not far from Dakshinkali lies the Newar town of Pharphing with
a whole bunch of monasteries and the famous Padmasambhava cave.
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Nagarjun Forest Reserve
The walled Nagarjun forest reserve, next to the botanical garden
and north-west of Kathmandu, is filled with live pheasant,
deer and other animals. This is one of the last significant areas
of untouched forest in the Kathmandu Valley. Nearby is a popular
Buddhist pilgrimage site, a number of limestone caves and a small
lookout with commanding views over the countryside. The main entrance
to the reserve is a 20-minute bicycle ride from Thamel; the walking
trails begin just inside the gate. It takes 3 h of - in places
- steep walking but the view from the top is one of the best in
the whole valley stretching from the Annapurna in the west to
Karyolung in the east. Let's not forget the splendid white stupa
on top and in typical Nepali fashion even the highest point features
a view tower. Thank you.
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Daman
South-west of Kathmandu, midway between the capital and Hetauda,
Daman is situated 2322m (7616ft) above sea level. It claims to
have the most spectacular outlook on the Himalaya - an
unimpeded panorama of snowcaps from Dhaulagiri to Mt Everest.
If the mountains are in cloud when you arrive, you can stay at
the ramshackle viewing tower and catch the peaks in the morning,
or stay in a good resort nearby. If it's spring, check out the
rhododendron forest on the southern side of the village. There
are also great views over the Terai to India from here.
Daman is three hours by car or four hours by bus from Kathmandu.
Unfortunately, there is only one bus a day in each direction.
Once the road leaves the main Pokhara highway cushion your back.
If you're daring enough, this is one of the most spectacular and
gruelling mountain-bike routes in the world.
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