What's to see

Kathmandu valley

The valley comprises the three royal cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur which share amongst themselves seven World Heritage Sites. The valley is one vast open-air museum of Newar culture with its colossal ensemble of sculptures, temples, monuments and magnificent artwork on display.

Major places of interest in Kathmandu are the Durbar Square (a World Heritage Site), an ensemble of palaces, courtyards and temples built between the 12th and 18th centuries by the Malla kings; Swayambhu Stupa (a World Heritage Site), one of the holiest Buddhist sites that keeps watch over the Valley from atop a hillock; Bouddhanath Stupa (a World Heritage Site), the largest stupa in the valley that rises 36 m; Pashupatinath Temple (a World Heritage Site), one of the holiest Hindu shrines in the world; and Changu Narayan Temple (a World Heritage Site), dedicated to Lord Bishnu and one of the finest and oldest specimens of pagoda architecture.

The country's capital and largest city simultaneously reeks of history and the wear and tear of increasing modernity. The tightly packed historical centre, with its squares and temples, continues to preserve a world light years away from the shanty towns, expensive hotels, restaurants and shops on the city's outskirts. Kathmandu's core is Durbar Square, with the Vishnumati River to the west and Ratna Park to the east. Diagonally through runs the old trade route from Tibet to India. The Bagmati River forms the southern boundary and separates the city from Patan, while Thamel, the budget travellers' hangout, sprawls to the north.

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Patan, the second-largest city in the valley, lies just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu, but it's a much quieter and less frenetic place to visit. The city is justly proud of its temples and artisans and it is their handiwork that provides the focus of the stunning Durbar Square - with its enchanting palace buildings, artistic courtyards and pagoda temples. The largest display of Newari architecture in Nepal. It includes the Royal Palace, which contains a richly decorated bathtub, and the two-tiered brick Jagannarayan Temple. Look up to the roof struts to see carvings of figures engaged in quite athletic acts of intercourse. A few minutes' walk north of the square is the Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal), a 12th-century Buddhist monastery guarded by sacred tortoises and exceptionally rich in fine wood-carvings and repousse work; and the Kumbeshawar, reputedly the oldest (1392) temple in Patan and one of the only three temples in the valley with five roofs. If you like to venture further north to the Bagamti, Shankamul beckons you. To the east of Patan Durbar Square lies Mahabouddha , a14th-century Buddhist monument, which is a fine example of terra cotta artwork; surrounding is an area of charming streets lined with metalsmiths and brassware shops. South of the Durbar Square you will be delighted by the Rato Macchendranath temple.

Patan's other attractions are flung further afield. Among them is a collection of four stupas, thought to have been built over 2500 years ago, and Nepal's only zoo, which features a reasonable assortment of rhinos, tigers, leopards and bird life. Palm readers gather in the park outside - they may be able to point out which animal you'll be reincarnated as. Tibetan carpets can be bought in Jawlakhel, east of the city.

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Bhaktapur is in many ways the most medieval of the three major cities in the Kathmandu Valley. Despite recent development, the city still retains a distinctly timeless air, with much of its glorious architecture dating from the end of the 17th century. Most sights can be easily traversed by foot and include yet another Durbar Square. The15th-century Palace of 55 Windows and entrance known as the Golden Gate - a masterpiece in repousse art lead into the inner sanctum of the royal palace, the Mul Chowk. Temples, statues and columns, many with grisly histories behind them. For instance, the sculptor of the Ugrachandi & Bhairab Statues had his hands chopped off to prevent him from duplicating his masterpieces, which didn't prevent him from sculpting yet another master-piece with his feet.

Bhakatapur's second main square is Taumadhi Tole, which features the five-roofed Nyatapola, the highest temple in the valley, and Til Mahadev Narayan, an important place of pilgrimage. Nearby is Potters' Square (Bolachhen), where thousands of clay pots are made and sold. East from here, through the sinuous streets of the old city centre, is Tachupal Tole, famed for its many ornate Hindu monasteries called Math.

Sometimes it's best to take a break from temples and sit back and watch the unchanging rituals of daily life of the Newar population: the laying out of grain to dry in the sun, families collecting water or washing under communal taps, children playing simple games, dyed yarns flapping in the breeze or potters at work throwing clay.

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Apart from Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, there are a number of other fascinating villages, temples and stupas scattered around the valley. One of these is probably the best known site in Nepal - the Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath. The temple is colloquially known as the 'monkey temple', after the large tribe of garrulous monkeys which guard the hill, amusing visitors and devotees with their tricks, including sliding gracefully down the long double bannisters of the main stairway. The soaring central stupa is topped by an aureate block featuring the watchful eyes of Buddha.

Beyond Swayambhunath, on the banks of the Bagmati River, is Pashupatinath, the country's pre-eminent Hindu temple and one of the most significant Shiva temples on the subcontinent. As the Bagmati is a holy river, Pashupatinath has become a popular place to be cremated - the ghats (river steps) immediately in front of the temple are reserved for the cremation of royalty, while those a little further south are for the plebs.

Another site with a religious bent is the huge stupa of Bodhnath, which is the largest in the country and among the largest in the world. It's also the centre for Nepal's considerable population of Tibetans. Late afternoon is a good time to visit. This is when prayer services are held and the locals turn out to walk around the stupa (remember to walk in a clockwise direction). Surrounding Bodhnath are a number of monasteries, but be discreet and respectful if you intend visiting them.

The valley also offers plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track, with treks to and from the resort villages of Nagarkot and Dhulikhel, venturing up to Nagarjun Hill, exploring cloud forests in Pulchowki and Godavari, or the laid-back regions of Chapagaon and Bungamati.

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The Terai

If you come to the Terai expecting snow-clad mountains and jaw-dropping vistas, you'll soon be disappointed. What you get instead is hot subtropical plains and some of the most fascinating attractions in Nepal. Foremost among them is the magnificent Royal Chitwan National Park, once the hunting ground of British and Nepalese aristocrats. Today, the animals - the one-horned rhinoceros, Royal Bengal tiger, gaur, wild elephant, gharial crocodile and the Gangetic dolphin - are protected, not shot. Tharus are the indigenous inhabitants of Chitwan. Probably the greatest thrill here is to scout for wildlife on the back of an elephant, go in a jeep or canoe, or go jungle walking with experienced guides.

Janakpur is an attractive city, bustling with tourists - Indian pilgrims that is, not Western backpackers. The city's religious significance is due to its role as the birthplace of Sita (Rama's wife in the Hindu epic Ramayana). During festivals, when vignettes from the Ramayana are re-enacted, it almost feels as if the ancient myth has come to life. If you can overcome its bewildering tangle of streets, Janakpur is packed with worthwhile sights including temples, pilgrim hostels and tiny sacred ponds. On the city's outskirts is the Janakpur Women's Development Centre, a must-see if you're interested in traditional Mithila art.

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Pokhara

The natural beauty of Pokhara in mid-west Nepal is simply bewitching. Forming the backdrop are the spectacular Annapurna mountains with the magnificent fish-tailed Machhapuchhre dominating the scene. Adding to Pokhara's enchantment are the three serene lakes of Phewa, Rupa and Begnas. Other places of interest include the World Peace Pagoda atop a hill that provides stunning views of the surroundings; the deep Seti Gorge below which spreads the Green Canyon; and Devi's Fall, an awe-inspiring waterfall that disappears into an underground passage. There's a batch of Tibetan settlements and to inhale the sunrise over the Annpurna Sarangkot (1592m) is the ticket. More exertion is required to tackle the Royal Trek.

Annapurna

Annapurna, the most popular trekking route in Nepal, begins from Pokhara and leads you through rhododendron forests over the foothills of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountains. The Kali Gandaki Gorge, the deepest in the world, and Lake Tilicho, the highest lake at 4,919 m, are located here. The highest elevation reached on the trek is 5,416 m.

Lumbini

Lumbini, in the south-west, is the birthplace of Lord Buddha and a World Heritage Site. An inscription on the Ashoka Pillar identifies the Sacred Garden as the place where the Buddha was born. Lumbini has a number of artistic temples and monasteries built through international support.